Buttonhole cutting and stitching machine.



E. B. ALLEN.

BUTTONHOLE CUTTING AND STITHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 6. I9I2.

. .2@9999@ Patandi De@ 26, 1916.

3 SHEETS-SHEET I.

.IIIIIII E. B. ALLEN. BUTTONHOLE CUTTING AND STITCHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT.6. 1912.

- Patented Dec. 26,1916.

www@

E. B. ALLEN. BUTTONHQLE CUTTINGAND STITCHING MAcHlNE;

merma Dec. 26,1916.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

APPLICATION .FILED SEPT. 6. 193 2.

LQGQQQ@ STATES PATENT FFIQE@ EDWARD B. ALLEN OF BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT,ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER MANU'- EACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEWJERSEY.

BUTTONHOLE CUTTING AND STITCI-IING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 26, 1916.

Application filed September 6, 1912. Serial No. 718,804,

v new and us'et'ul Improvements in Euttonhole Cutting and StitchingMachines, of Which the tollowingY is a specification, reference being`had therein to the accompanying draw-l ings.

This invention has for its object to adapt buttonhole stitchingmachines, and more particularly that class employing rotarystitch-forming mechanism, for adjustment for cutting and stitchingbuttonholes of different sizes such as are required for differentclasses of cloth garments. to simplify and increase the capacity of themechanisms heretoforeleinployed in this class of machines,

and tofinsure a clean cut in the formation of the buttonhole slit.

Heretofore, it has been customary in the cutting` ot the biittonlioleslit to move the work-holder immediately before a cutting action intoregister with a non-traveling euttiiig device or else move the cuttingdevice into register with a work-holder remaining in stitching position.The lirst of these eX- pedients involved an excessive loss of time inshifting the work-holder slowly into cutting4 position or else moving itso quickly as to intertere'-f`with the operators manipulation of thework all but simultaneously with its adjustment between the clampingjaws; While thesecond ot such eXpedients involved a loss ot .time andliability to disarrangement otl the parts" in the displacement ofportions of the stitch-forming mechanism or accessories thereof b v thecutting device.

According to the present improvement, the cutting is produced out of butcloselyv adjacent to the range of action of the stitchliorniingmechanism in which position thev work-holder is shifted at thecompletion of each buttoiiliole cuttingsr and stitching cycle ot' themachine. By this means. no part oi' accessory of the: stitch-formingmechanism.

stitch-forming ing relatively reciprocal cuttingmovenicnts and carryingrespectively a removable block and a cutting knife of the length of thelongest buttonhole, slits ot' different length may be cut by theemployment of a plurality of interchangeable blocks of diil'erent lengthopposed to the cutting edge of the longer knife, the length of travel ofthe work-holder from its initial positionin .which the cutting of thefabric is performed into stitching position being controlled rela*tively to the length of the slit so as to insure the starting ot' theedge-covering overseain at the small end ot' the latter, while theperiod of action of the stitch-forming mechanisni may be controlled byan adjustable traveling tripping point for operating the stop-niotion toarresttlie stitching mechanism at the starting` point relatively to thelength of the slit.

In the preferred embod==ient of the present invention, the cuttingdevice occupies a normally retracted position iemote from thestitch-forming mechanism, but is caused to advance to bring its cuttingelements into iregister with the work-holder for a cutting action, afterwhich it reeedes rapidly into initial position, while means connectingits actuating mechanism with the ecdwheel for eliecting the travel ofthe work-holder shifts the latter into the range of action of thestitch-forming mechanism and into a position to accurately locate theinitial stitches at the closed end ot the slit previously formed. Thework-holder thus occupies an initial position intermediate the normalpositions of the cutting device and the stitchforming mechanism inrespect t@ the combined lengths of relative traverse of the work-holderand the cutting device and mechanism.- respectively, toward and fromcutting position regardless of the relative directions ot movement ofsuch members which will be in practice straight, curved or angular.depending upon the relative iiornial positions ot the cutting andstitching means. Any usual or suitable means may be provided to impartto the feed-wheel a step-b \'-stcp partial rotation to eli'ect theadvance of the work in spacing the edge-covering stitches. and at thecompletion ot' the stitching operation the feed-Wheel is more rapidlyadvanced ihrough a final partial rotation to restore the work-holder toinitial cutting position preparatory to the. approach to which andsubsequent to the Q p 1f-Suasa@ completion of the stitching thework-holder is automatically opened to release'the work. By the means just described, the workholder remains stationary Apreparatory to andduring the cutting action, so that the work may be adjusted therein bythe operator under the most favorable conditions possible, while thequick travel of the workshifting it or replacing it by another objectpreparatory to the succeeding cutting operation.

The spreader lfor laterally separating the clamping .elements of thework-holder to stretch the fabric is preferably operated while thecutting elements are closed upon the same inthe cutting operation. Thiscauses the tearin apart of any uncut threads of the fabric W ile firmlynipped between the cutting elements, and insures the freedom of 'thebuttonhole slit from cross-threads lnism and certain parts operativelyconnected therewith. Fig. 5 is a detached side elevation of the cuttingmechanism, Fig. 6 'a similar elevation taken from the opposite side of apart of such mechanism and Fig. 7 a perspectivel view upon an enlargedscale of the outer portion ofthe upper cutter-carrying leverandcutter-block detached therefrom. Fig.l 8 is a' planof the feed-Wheel andcertain of the parts which 'it actuates. Fig. 9, is a perspective viewof the spreader mechanism for the work-holder. Fig. 10 is aperspectiveview of a part of the stop-motion device. Fig. 11 is a plan of the underside of one armofthe stop-motion triplever. Figs. 12 and 13 areperspective views representing the controlling means for the'cutter-slt, and Fig. 14 is a rear facev view of the -wheel' and stoppingcam4 of the stop-inotin device. Fig. 15 is a 'perspective viewrepresenting portions of the clampclosing and opening devices. Fig. 16is a detail view of a portion of the stop-motion mechanism.

As represented in the drawings, the present machine is constructed insubstantial accordance with my United States Patent No. 1,024,490, ofApril 30, 1912, as regards general constructive features, including thefeed-wheel actuation, the cutter-shaft control and the stop-motiondevice; the stitchforming mechanism being that of my United StatesPatent No. 1,030,046, of June 1.8, 1912. v

Excepting incertain particulars, the cutter mechanism is constructed insubstantial accordance with my pending application Selrial No. 593,784,filed November 23, 1910,

and the work-holder is the same, excepting in certain details, as thatdisclosed in my pending application Serial No. 693,7 7 8, filed April29, 1912.

As represented in the drawings, ,the frame of the machine is constructedwith the hollow rectangular base 1 having a suitably apertured topforming a bed-plate 2 from the rear end of which rises the hollowstandard 3 of the bracket-arm With forwardly extending tubular member`4terminating in the hollow head 5.

Suitably mounted in the base 1 is the rotary lower shaft 6 provided withquartering cranks 7 connected by pitmen 8 with similar cranks 9 of theupper or needle-driving shaft 10 journaled within thetubular arm 4. Themain-shaft 6 carries the loose grooved beltwheel 11. The needle-drivingshaft 10 is connected with the intermediate shaft 12 by a trammel device13 for imparting two rotations of the former to one of the latter, andthe shaft 12 carries the crank-plate 14 having a pin connected by meansof the pitman 15 with a similar pin upon the loose collar 16 fitted toand confined from endwise movement upon the rectilinearly reciprocatingneedle-bar' 17 adapted for rotation with a bushing journaled .in thebracket-arm head and carrying the yoke 18 in which is jourto suitableguideways upon the bed-plate and connected at the rearward ends by thecross-plate 26 formed with the slot 27. The

apertured lugs 28 depending from the'bars 25 sustain the transverseguide-rod 29 having slidingly fitted thereon the apertured lugs 30depending from the jcross slideplate 31 adapted to rest upon thebed-plate.

lSustained by the cross slide-plate and piv- .oted thereto by means ofthe depending pins the rocking pin 3T which is journaled in the` crossslide-plate 31 and has secured upon its lower end the hub 38. ot' arock-lever formed with the oppositely extending arms 39 and,

40, the latter having the lateral -apertured finger il connected withone end of the spring 42 whose opposite end is attached by means of thescrew 43 to the cross slideplate for maintaining the rock-lever in nor'-mal unspreading position with its arm 39 yieldingly incontact with thestop-pin ll of the cross slide-plate.

Each clamp-plate 33 has pivotally mounted thereon by means of thetransverse fulcrum-pin l5 a rocking block -lt carryingl the clamp-armli" with clamping 'foot lo@ which is adapted to be depressed by means ofthe. cam t9 mounted upon the rock-shaft 50. One of the rock-shafts 30has secured Iupon its outer end the linger-lever 5l with connectedrearwardly extending tappet-arm and at the opposite end the radial armterminating in the lateral pin 5l arranged parallel with the rock-shaft.The other rock-shaft 50 has tixed upon its inner endthe radial arm 55formed in its outer extremity with the torkt adapted to embrace the pin5l, and has tixed upon its opposite end the lateral tappet-arm 57.Litting springs 5S are interposed between each clamp-plate and theclan'ip-arm pivotally mounted thereon.

rl`he main sl ide-trame derives its longitudinal traveling;- movementslroln a stud 59 entering thc slot 27 and carried b v the swinging leverGt) tulcrumed at 6l beneath the work-plate and provided intermediate itsends with the depending roller-stud (3:2 entering the cam-groove (i3 ot`the feed-wheel 6l. The slide-plate Pil has secured upon its lower face.the block longitudinally einmneled to receive the roller-stud GG carriedby the rock-lever (ST tulcrnmed at GS and carrying at its opposite endlthe roller-stud 69 entering` thc side-shift groove T0 ot the cam-wheel(ll from which the work-holder receives vits lateral or side-shiftmovements.

T he main-shaft 6 carries the cam-cylinder T1 provided with theperipheral groove 72 entered by the roller-stud 73 depending from alever T-l tulcrumed beneath the work-plate upon the stud-screw 75.

The,

lever 74 has pivotally connected therewith intermediate its ends one ndotl a link 7G whose opposite end has an adjustable pivotal connectionwith the slotted vibratory arm 77 actuating the cramping clutch-dogs TShaving `iaws embracing the peripheral tiange T9 ot' the feed-wheel Gt towhich they are adapted lto impart step-by-step rotary movements forcommunicating to the workholder longitudinal feeding and lateralsideshit't movements during the operation ot the stitch-formingmechanism in applying the edge-covering overseam stitches.

Mounted in the bed plate and suitably aetuated by means to he describedis the longitudinally disposed slide-bar provided with the forwardlyextending tripping finger Sl which is adapted, preparatory to eachstitching operationto advance into engagement. with the spreader-arm l()to turn it upon the pin 3T in opposition to the spring l2 tor engagementot' the extremity ot the arln 39 by the notched detaining arm otl aplural-arimal latch-lever 'lulcrumcd upon the stint-screw if?) andformed with a second arm Si whose apertured end is connected by meansotl the spring S5 with a plate. Sti secured to one ot' the dependinglugs 2l() ot the cross slide-plate. As the spreaderarm moves alongtheedge ot' the latch-lever arm S2, the shoulder ot the latter snaps behindthe forward edge of the t'ormer under the action otl the spring S5, tomaintain the cam-button 3G in spreading position7 as represented in Fig.9. The latch-lever partalces ot' the sidewise and endwise feedingx'novements ot the slide-plate 3l under the, action of the feed-wheel,and at the completion ot` a stitching operation its third lateral arm 8Tencountersl the end ot a stationary tripping tinger SS formed upon` aplate S9 secured by screws 90 upon a stal tionary portion of the trame,7and the latchlever is thereby rocked inopposition to its spring S5 torelease the spreinler-arm S9. thereby permitting the cam-luitton 3G tohe returned to linitial position under the action ot the springl l2.

The cutter-actuating shaft 91. is mounted in the frame above thework-plate and transversely otl the standard 3 and carries upon one endthe constant-ly driven loose grooved l'ielt-wheel 92 having upon itsinner face the annular rib 93 formed with peripherally spaced notchesfitto aford a series ot clutchteeth adapted for engagement by the lug95, which constitutes a coupling tooth, upon the rearward facel of aslide-block 9G mounted in a radial slideway 97 of the clutch-disk 9Sfixed upon the cutter-shaft adjacent the belt-wheel. The slide-block 9Gis normally pressed ont 'ardly by means of a spring 99 engaging the lng95, and has upon its v adapted :13er

' block is held normally retracted in opposi- 4 engagement of its tionto the spring 99 by.

, stud 100 with the cam-plate 102, but the f manualretraction of thelever 103 (Fig. 2)

' disengages the, cam-plate from such stud and permits the slide-blockto move outwardly to engage ts lug 95 with one of the notches 94 of therib 93 of the belt-wheel, whereby the rotation of the cutter-actuatingshaft is inaugurated; while the rengagement of the stud 100 with the cai-plate 102, again restored to' operative position by the action of thespring 104, retractsthe lug 95 from thenotch 94 and thus disengages theclutch-wheel 96 Afrom the belt-wheel 92 at the completion of a singlerotation ofV the shaft 91.

Mounted upon the bed-plate beneath the bracket-arm member 4 is thefulcrum-carrying slide-block 106`in which is journaled the .fulcrum-pin107 sustaining the upper and lowerI cutter-levers 108 and 109which aredrawn together rearward of the fulcrum-pin 107 by means of the spring110 connected at its 'opposite ends with lateral .lugs upon therespective cutter-levers.

Upon the forwardly projecting arm 109 of the lowercutter-lever s securedthe cutting-knife 111 comprising a sharp blade ter- Y' minating at therearward end in a round punch adapted to cut out the eye portion of thebuttonhole slit. Theforward arm 1,08 ofthe upper cutter-lever is formedwith a vtransverse dove-tail seat entered by the correspondinglyshapedtongue 112- of a transversely ad]ustable block 113 having in its lowerface a longitudinal dove-tail shaped groove 114 in which issecured inposition yby means of the set-screw 1,15 the correspondingly shapedtongue 116 of the upper cutter member formed as a b'lock or anvil 117conforming in general shape and in register with thecutting knife 111.The tongue 116 is formed in one side with the recess 116 adapted toreceive the pointV of the set-screw 115 to accurately position the samerelative to' the leyed end Tof thelower cutter' member. Thel uppercuttermember is readily removable by' retraction?jofl the fastening sc`rew 115 and is replaceable by others of different length-from-the eye portionso as to supportv only so much. of the' lfabric resting upon the lower"cutting'lmife that a is desired to prin/ide with ae sia,

the exposed portion of the vblade 111,'-as re'p-' 3, being ineectiveinthe resented in Fig, slit-cutting operation.

in a lug 105.

lbers 111` and 117 are separated and the cutment from the work andthework-support- Amg parts of the machine, so as to permit the thecutting elements'from cutting position to The cutter-shaft 91 has fixedthereon two `cutter-lever actuating cams l118 and 119 actingrespectively upon wearing faces afforded by the straight lower and upperedges of the upper and lower cutter-levers rearward ofthe fulcrum-pin107, whereby they are tilted reciprocally for operation upon the work.The cutter-shaft 91 has also fixed thereon the cam-disk 120 having inone of itsl faces the cam-groove 121 entered by the lateral stud 122carried by the link-,bar 123 having an apertured end embracing apivotal4 pin 124 adj'ustably secured in vthe fulcrum-block 106and formedat its opposite end with a yoke 125 in which is fitted a 4 slide-block126 journaled upon the shaft 91. The cutter-actuating cams are so shapedand mounted u'pon the cutter-shaft that when the latter is at rest .thecutting memter-carrying levers 108 and 109 are in retracted position, asrepresented in full lines in Fig. 5;, but in the rotation of the cuttershaft they are shiftedbodily forward and closed together, as represented`in dotted lines in- Fig. 5, and subsequently Vseparated and retracted-intothe full line position of said figure preparatory to the completionof an operative 'rotation ofl the 'shaft 91.

As in he present embodiment of the improvement both cutting4 elements111 and 117 perform their bodily traveling movements correspondingly in'direction and extent with -the lateral movements of the ful- Crum-pin107, such initial operative movements are made transversely of theneedle'- `path, while their succeeding closing movements about thefulcrum-pin .are in so short` -an arc that they are in a substantiallystraight line practically parallel with fthe needle-path. The object ofthis two-stage or compound movement is to enable the cutting elements toremain normally separated by only a suffcient space for theirdisengageemployment of quicklyand powerfully acting cutter-closing "camswithout abrupt or harsh operative portions; the retraction of exposetheelamp `for introduction and removal of the woi'kwithin' convenientview of the operator beingef'ected by a similarly rapid bodily movementat a substantially right angle with the cutting'movement un- 120 .derthe action of a separate and vindependent cam.

The slide-bar 80 has at its rearward `end an upwardly projecting arm 127carrying the roller-stud 128 which is maintained by 125 means of aspring 129 applied to the forward endof the bar 80`in constant rollingcontact with the periphery of the cam-wheel 120,

which is circular throughout excepting forV a short distance'on'one sidewhere it is pro- 130 i tory to the s'ucceed'ing stitching operation.

As represented more particularly in Figs. 1, 2 and 14, adjacent theloose driving pulley 11 is secured upon the main-shaft 6 the hub of a.clutch-wheel. or disk 131 recessed at one portion of its periphery forreception of the clutch-plate 132 interposed between said wheel and the.wall -of a chamber for the vsame in the loose pulley, said wheel alsohaving a segmental recess upon the inner side of said plate for thereception of a cam projection 133 upon a clutch-ring 134 which has apivotal connection with said clutchwheel by means of said projection toenable the clutch-ring to swing relatively to' the clutch-wheel forcausing the cammed or iiattened outer portion ot' said projection toclamp the clutch-plate tightly against the wall ot the chamber in thepulley 11 when the latter is to be clutched io the driving shaft.

The clutch-ring 134 is provided witha pin 135 extending within a` recessin the clutchwheel 131 containing a spring 136 bearing against said pinso as tol force the parts lat- 1 erally into clutching position, asshown in Fig. 14. The clutch-ring 134 is provided at its periphery witha notch 137 for the reception of the lug or projection 138 on avertically movable spring-depressed block 139 carried by tht` vibratorystop-motion lever 140 pivotally mounted upon the rockshat't 141 journaled in the bracket 142.

The stop-lever 140 has at its upper end a thrust-plate 143 between whichand the bracket-arm standard 3 is interposed the spring 144 for shiftingthe lever into stopping position wherein the lug or projection 138 iscaused to ride up the cammed periphery 134 ofthe clutch-ring 134preparatory to entrance into the notch 137, `whereby the block 139 islifted under the action of the cam-edge 134 and is permitted to descendunder the actionof its spring as the projectlion 138 comes into registerwith the notch Fixed upon `the rock-shaft 141 is a rigid arm 145carrying a wearing plate 146 normally lying within the range of movementof the cani-plate 147 secured to the rearward face of the cam-wheel 120and by means of which the arm 145 is depressed to tilt the stop-lever140 in opposition to the spring 144. As the arm 145 descends, it isengaged by the inturned linger 148 of the c ping lever 154 mounted uponthe lower end l f otl the rock-shaft journaled in the workplate 2 andhaving at its upper end the forwardly extending arm 156.

Pivotally mounted` by means ot the ful- Crum-stud 157 upon the outer endof the arm 156 the cam-plate 158 having depending adjacent the rearwardedge ot said arm a pin 159 pressed normally against the edge otl the armby means of a flat spring 160 secured'to the edge of the same by screws161. The lnose 158 of the cam-plate, which projects beyond the forwardedge of the arm 156. normally lies -within the path of Inovement of thetripping stud 162 carried by the plate 163 which adjustab-ly mountedupon, the rearward rmember of the main slidet'ram'e. As the work-holdermoves forwardl from the position .represented in Figs. 1 and 3. thetripping stud 162, in its encounter with the nose 158 of the camplate158, turns the same aside in opposition to the spring 160, but on itsreturn movement at the completion of a stitching operation, its turnlngby engagement with the inclined edge of the nose 158 isprevented bycontact ot' the pin 159 with the opposite edge ot the arm 156. whichlatter is thus thrust aside. causing the shifting of the tripping arm154 and disengagement of the latchlever 149 from the stop-lever arm 145,thereby permitting the parts to assume stopping position under theaction of the spring 144.

The hub ot' the loose pulley-wheel 11 is provided with an eccentric 164embraced by a strap 165 having a `forked lug 166 connected by means or'the link 167 with the rearwardly extending arm 168 of a rocking sleeve169 which is j ournaled upon the cross- Shaft 170 and provided with anupwardly extending arm 171. The arm 171 is pivotally connected with therearward end of a reciprocating pawl-bar 172 having at its forward endthe reduced operative portion 173 whose wedge-shaped extremity isadapted to engage the segi'nental series of ratchet-teeth 174 extendingnearly around the entire periphery of the feed-wheel 64 but interruptedfor a small proportion of the circumference at 175 upon which thepawl-member 173 is adapted to reciprocate idly.

Secured to the bottom of the hed-plate bymeans of the stud-screw 176 isthe hanger 177 upon the under side of which is pivotally mounted bymeans of the screw-pin 178 a plural-armed pawl-.controlling lever proofthe pawl-bar 172, the latter having secured thereto a'spring 181normally pressing the pawl-bar yieldingly against the lip 17 9 of thearm 179. Said plural-armed lever has a third angularly disposed arm 182pivotally connectedV by the screw-pin 183with the forward end of apitmanl-rod 184 whose 185 with the depending arm 186 of` a rockleverfulcrumed upon'the'stud-screw 187 and v having a forwardly extendingfarm 18S-fand a rearwardly .extending arm 189. A spring 19()`attachedfat one end to the vrear wall of the base and atthefopposite endto the arm i 182 tendslto lturn the arm 179 upon the ful- -crumscrew178:in such manner as to normally hold. thepawlbar 172 out of engage@.end in .an aperture 204in the top of the i mentA with' the feed-wheel.

@Thefrockelever arm` 189 is'formed at its rearward extremitywith alateral extension 189l vsustaining 'the j tering the aperture 192 in theupper end of a depending link v-193 which is formed in its 'lowerportion with the lateral notch 194 to receive the laterally extendingstud 195 of l' the`block 139 carried by the stop-lever 140.

Secured to the lever extension 189 by means .of1 the screw 196 is thewire spring. 197 whose free end enters thejgroove 198 inthe edge of ,thelink -193 andmaintains it pressed backwardly between the spacedstop-lugs 199 of and normally in contact with the plate 200 Y, whichis'in practice Asecured to the machine machine shifts the stud 195laterally out', of

frame. When'the main-shaft is locked from turning by the stop-motion,the stud 195is embraced b v the notch 194 which maintains the link193'in its lower position to position the pawl-controlling lever foroperative engagement of the pawl-member 17 3 with the peripheryrof thecamheel 64. The tilting of the stop-lever 140 to 'disengage the blockl139 from the 'clutch-ring 134 in starting the the notch ,194 of thelink. 193, thereby .ref leasing the link and its connections with thepawl-controlling lever, which latteris shifted by the spring 190 tothrow the pawl member 173 out of operative relation with the feed-wheelin which it continues to perform idly its jogging movements imparted bythe actuating eccentric 164. 'Thetripping of `.the stop-leverjbyvtliemeans heretofore dej 'scribed causes the latter to return to stoppingyposition. under-the 4action of the lspring 144,. thereby throwing thevrounded 'end' ofjthe stud'195v forward against the notched edge of thelink 193 which is-pressed aside edgewise until the rise ofthe blockunder theaction of the cam 134 lifts it suiiiciently. to bring' thestud195 into register with the notch 194, when the link returns toengagement .with theyplate 200 under the y action of the spring 197 soas osite end' is connected by the screw-pin revolution,

ball-stud Screw 191 en-` upper thread.

. needle-bar.

' 224 independently of to again embrace the stud 195 which latter drawsthe link downwardly in opposition to the spring 190 as the block 139descends in the final stopping position of the parts. The return of thepawl-member 17 3 into operative relati'on with the ratchet-teeth 174then presented toit enables it to impart a comparatively rapid step -by#step work-shifting movement to the feed-wheel to complete a at the endof which the pawlmember 173 encounters the gap 175 between the extremeratchet-teeth of the series and 'the Vfeed-wheel comes to rest inreadiness for a succeeding cycle of operation of the machine. l

The arm 188 is formed in its outer end with an aperture entereduby a pin201 at the extremity of a rigid lateral arm' 202 secured upon a rod 203journaled near its vupper thelower-thread tension device to Separatethem for relief of the tension upon the thread. The rod 203 has securedupon its upper end the collar 209 formed with a neck 210 entered by therounded extremity '211 vof a rock-lever 212 fulcrumedat 213 upon thetension bracket 214 and formed 't its opposite end with a lateralextension 215 having a depending wedge-shaped finger 216 which isadapted to enter between and separate the thread-engaging disks 217 ofthe upper tension device to relieve the tension upon the The extension215 0f the tension release lever 212 is shown provided. 'with Avathread-guiding loop. 218 through which. the thread is led from thetake-up lever 219 to the upper end of,v the tubular The cutter-shaft 91is shown provided adjacent the cutter-`actuating cam 119 with aclampclosing cam 220 in contact lwith whichis held by' the spring 221the lateral stud .222

upon the rearward end of theiclamp-closing lever 223 supportedintermediate its ends at the cutter-carrying levers' and having adown-turned forward extremity 225 adapted for engagement the lateral'arm 52 of the clamp rock-shaft 50. .As will loe-.seen from Figs. 3 and5, the

with I clamp-closing 'cam 2 20 is set slightly in advance of the uppercutter-lever .actuating caml 118, and'therock-lever 223 thus per-v.

forms itslclamp-closing movement during .the tilting of the cutterlever108 and completes its clamp-'closing action just prior to the the fabricto cut a buttonhole slit. .y .Thespring-pressed block 139 has upon itslinal closing of the cutter members upon edge opposite the stud 195 astud-pin 226 upon which is pivotally mounted the swinging lever 227whose upper/portion is embraced by the spaced ears 222 ot theguidebracket 22S) sustained by the stop-lever and carrying a spring 2?0secured thereon by the screw 231 by means of which the rearward edge olthe. lever 227 is normally held in contact with the 'bracket 22% asrepresented in Fig. 4. Extending normally above the upper end ot thelever is a lateral extension 232 of the rearward arm of a` clamp-owningrock-lever having intermediate its ends the boss 233 mounted upon thetulcrum-pin 234 sustained by the standard il and having' a torwardlyextending arm with downturned and rounded extremity 235 normallydisposed slightly above the Hat operative portion 57 ot the tappetarm 57upon one o 'thc clamp-operating rock-shafts 50. The. rearward arm 232ot' the clamp-openingrock-lever is normally' drawn downward to maintainit disengaged Atrom the tappet-arm 57 by means of the spring 236connected with a pin 237 extending from the base 1. The tripj'iing lever227 is moved backward and forward beneath the lever-arm extension 232 inthe operative movements ot the stop-lever for starting and stopping themain-shaft. and vwhen the stop-lever assumes stopping position. the riseof the block 139 under the action ot the m1111134 causes the bodilyascentot the lever 227 whiclrtilts the clamp-opening lever in oppositionto the spring 236, thereby depressing the tappet-arm 57 to tmn therockshafts for the release of the work-clamp arms 47. In case ot thebreakage of the thread during a stitching operation, the work may beheld undisturbed at'tei the. stoppage of the stitch-forming mechanism bythe manual shitting :forwardly of the lever 227 in opposition to itsspring 220. so as to hold such lever clear of the lever-arm, extension232 as the block 130 rises under the action ot' the cam 134.

rlhe cutter-.shaft 91 has fixed upon its rearward end the disk 238having in itsu rem-ward tace the cam-groove 239 entered by a roller-stud240 sustained upon a lateral projection 241 of a swinging segmentallever 242 having` its hub 243 tulcrumed upon the stud-screw 244 whichlis sustained by the bracket 245 (Fig. 3) of the standard 3. The lever isformed with an undercut groove 246 in which is adjustably secured thestud' maintained in ope 'ative relation with the ratchet-teeth 174 otthe feed-wheel 64 by means of a spring 256 having one end attached to anaperturcd lateral lug 257 o't the pawl and the opposite end connectedwith a pin 258 sustained by the link-bar 248.

The feed cam-groove (33 is so shaped and proportioned that at thecompletion ot' a rotation o1 the cam-wheel G4 when the operativeextremity ot the pawl-member reaches the gap 175 between theratchet-teeth 174, the work-clamp assumes the fabric cutting position atthe opposite side ot the stitchforming mechanism trom its work-advancingposition occupied during the stitching operation, and intermediate thestitching position and the retracted position ot the cutting device.Upon the actuation of the cutter-shaft controlling lever 10?) to producean initial'rotation of the cuttershatt 91, the cuttingmembers 111 and117 first advance bodily toward the stitch- 'forming mechanism intocutting relation with the work-holder and then close upon the work,after-.which they are separated and retracted to initial position.During the advance of the cutting device to cutting position, the lever242 moves forward to ad 'ance the pawl 255, and just after the cuttingmembers are separated the continuous backward movement of the lever 242causes the corresponding; movement of the pawl which imparts to theYfeed-wheel a workshitting movement through an are whose length isdetern'iined by the adjustment ot' the stud 247 within the groove'246ot' the lever 242. This comparatively rapid continuous movement of thefeed-wheel advances the work-holder from cutting position into initialstitching position wherein the end of .the buttonhole slit is disposedin the proper relation with the range ot action ot the stitch-'formingmechanism to begin stitching. The length of the travel ot the cuttingdevice trom retracted position into cutting position adjacent thestitch-forming mechanism is invariably the same tor the various sizes ofbuttonholes` and therefore the lower cutting member 111 always assumesthe same operative position, variations in the length ot lslit producedbeing effected b v the use of interchangeable upper cutting members 117whose eye portions invariably register with that of the lower member.but whose blade portions are -ot lengths corresponding' respectivelywith the. sizes of' slit desired. The lower cutterinember is of a lengthcorresponding with the. longest buttonhole which the machine isvdesigned to produce, and is thus adapted Ator coperation with aninterchangeable set ot upper cutter members or anvil blocks. As theposition of the initial stitch will vary with the length ort slitproduced. it is evident that the length ot movement of the \vork-lioliler between cuithe present machine by varyingthe operativeA throw of thepawlv'255as .before described to produce the necessary initial' arcofmovement of the. feed-wheel f'or such'pur'pose.l

holderis .in cutting extremitles of. lts uniorm vrange of traverse,

vwith its clamping members separated for in`- troduction of the work;land thecutting device is in its eXtreme retracted position' be-` yondthe work-holder yrelatively to the stitchf forming mechanism and withits cu'ttingele-v` ments separated. In this initial stationary positionofthe work-holder the operator has ample time `for insertion and properposi.

l tioning of the work between the clamping members. preparatory to themanual'a'ctuation of' the ,.cutter-controlling lever'r103,

'whereby the cuttereshaft lisset in motion. Thecutter-levers 108 and-109 are firstA adf vanced toward cutting position andthe clamp-closinglever 223 is rocked at substantially the completionl offsuvch-"advance:l movement byt the cam 220 to depress .the

tappet-arrn", into clamp-closingpvosition immediately-Q2 following'whichA the 'x-cuttermembers `close"` upon the fabric thus securelyclamped in the work-holder.v The position' of the parts at this stageofthe cutting and stitching cycle is represented in Figs. 1 and 3. 'Justas" the cuttin members come t0'- gether upon the work,-t espre'adeq,earn-butd` ton 36' .is turned to spread' thework-holder underthe action ofthe cam-projection 120',

ratchet-teeth 174: ofthe cam-wheel 64 and 6 and during theseparation andretraction of lthe cutter-membersfflll(and.117 the feed'f wheel 64receives ',its'iinitial turn from the4v pawl 255 toshiftthework-holder'into operative relation anism.

stitch-forming v'mechanismy is fseti infymotion and during its operationthe feed-Wheel`re-A ceives its normal step-bylstepslow', feed-ac#`th'er'efore found desirablein practice to employ a traveling cuttingdevice, in order that tuating movementmfiom fthe reciprocating'clutch-dogs 78 which proceeds throughout' the r continued retreat offthefwork-holderf'. frorn cutting position, and return 'toward thesameuntil the tripping lug`162encounters lthe nose 158'" of the'cam-plate 1.5 8 which it thrusts aside, carrying with it the arm 156 lwhich-shifts theitripping arm 154 golf' r'e-` lease 'of the stop-lever14:0. which assumes at the same time actuates the tension release withthe' stitch-formingmechu .s v ff-.cams 118 and 119 are preferably veryshort, The stop-lever '140 beingshiftedby. action" of the cam-plate'147- priorf to thecompletion f. of aufull. rotation oftheYcutterlslijaft 91, jtlie-j members 207 and 216- to relieve the tensionupon the upper and lower threads for con` venient removal or .othermanipulation of the work. The step-by-step return movement of thefeed-wheel to. initial position -`.under the action of the pawl-member173 Whenthe machine is-at rest,the werke osition at/one of the causes'the returnY of the work-holder to initial cutting position at anincreased rate of sneed over the' normal feeding action,

.preparatory to which tne engagement of the lever 227 with theclamp-opening rock-lever arm 57 to' turn the clamp rocleshafts 50 forvrelease of the clamp-arms, which-obviously occurs immediately at thecompletion of the stitching, lso that the work is released fromthef'work-holder for shifting for a succeed- `ofadjustment ofthe'w'orl-within the workholder while'the latter is stationary and ininitial position', that `the closing of the clamp and cutting of theslit are effected rapidlyv tamijthe wore-holder shifted into stitchingposition and thestitch-forming mechanism vthrown Iinto operation,almostinstantly after they aetual cutting operation has been performed.

The" timeA 4during lwhich the feed-wheel completes a rotation afterthestitching, tov

232 235 causes the depression of the tappeteffectthe travelof the clamplto initial cutting position and the unspreading of the same andtoproduce .the return rotation of thestitching mechanism, is utilizedforthe shifting or removal 'of the vworkpreparatory to a'succeeding cuttingand'stitching operation. f. L

' ."lhei'eiprocal voperative or cutting movement'sfofvthev cutter-leversderived from the so 'that if they 'should voccupy the cutting positionatall times the'upper member 117 of the buttonhole in the garment. It isin retracted position fn-.ecuttmg members or tors wav. Rather thanimpart' to the cutting members an excessively long range of travel .tothis end, it has been found preferableto give to the work-holder areciprocal tively thereto in the' movement toward cut'- ting positionand substantially simultaneous elements will be 'entirely out of theoperalmovement-,which is differentially timed relal l From the'foregoingdescription, it will be seen that the present mechanism lcontains manyfeatures which contribute toe the eiciency and .'speed-capaclty of .the"machine,

certain of which may be used advantageously in some cases 'Without theothers, and all of Vwhich are susceptible to modification in details ofconstruction and form, Without departure from the present invention.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, `what I claim hereinis l. In a buttoiiliole sewing machine, the combination withstitch-forming mechanism and a cutting device normally spaced apartlaterally, and a Work-holder, of means whereby said work-holder andcutting device are caused to assume operative relation in a positionintermediate the stitch-forming mechanism and .the normal position ofthe cutting device, anu actuating means for said cutting device.

2. In a buttonliole sewing machine, the

combination with stitch-forming mechanism,-

and a traveling cut-ting device normally occupying retracted positionremote from the stitch-forming mechanism', of a vvorkholder, means forimparting thereto feeding movements t-o space the stitches, means forshifting the work-holder into and out of cutting position intermediatethe stitchforming mechanism and the retracted position of the cuttingdevice, and means for moving the cutting device into cutting position inoperative relation vvith the ivoi'kholder.

3. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, of a cutting device comprising opposed cutting elementsnormally retracted from cutting position, a work-holder adapted to beshifted into and out of said cutting posi'- tion. and means forimparting to said workholder and both cutting elements of the cuttingdevice traveling movements laterally toward said cutting positionpreparatory to each, cutting' action.

l. In a buttonhole' sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism including a reciprocating needle and means for interruptingthe action of the same, of a cutting device movable toivard and fromsaid needle and in a direction at an angle with the same, a Work-holder,and means acting while the stitch-forming mechanism is inactive andpreparatory to each cutting action for imparting to said work-holder andcutting device traveling movements tovard each other and subsequentreturn movements toward and from the needle-path.

5. In a biittoiihole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism including a reciprocating needle and means for interruptinglthe action of the same, of a cut-ting device movable toward and fromsaid needle and in a direction at an angle with the same, a work-holder,and means acting While the stitch-forming mechanism'is inactive andpreparatory to each cutting action for imparting to said Worlcholder andcutting device traveling movements towardeach other and for impartingthereto simu1`- Work-holder from stitching position into cuttingposition rat one rate of speed and its return to stitching position at ahigher rate of speed'.

7. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, a Work-holder, and a cutting device adapted to perform itscutting actions out of the rangeof action of the stitch-formingmechanism, o f means for imparting to the ivorkholde-r a step-bysteptravel from stitching to cutting position and a single step return lmovement to stitching position.

S. In a buttoiihole sevving machine, the

vcombination vvith stitch-formingmechanism,

a Work-holder, a. traveling cutting device adapted to perform itscutting actions out of the range of action of the stitch-formingmechanism, and actuating means therefor, of means for shifting theWork-holder from stitching to cutting position, and means acting duringthe operation of said actuating means ivhereby the work-holder beginsits return to stitching position during the period of operation of thecuttingi device.

9. In a huttonhole sewing machine, the combination withstitclitoimingmechanism, a work-holder, and a cutting device withactuating iiicaiis therefor vvh'ereby said cutting device is adapted toperform its cutting actions out of the range of action of thestitchforming mechanism, of means independent of said actuating meansfor 'shifting the 'work-'holder from stitching to cutting position, andmeans operatively connected With said actuating means for returning thevvorkholder to stitching' position.

l0. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism and feeding mechanisms, a work-holder and a cutting deviceadapted to perform its cutting actions out of the range of actionof thestitch-forming mechanism, of means acting through a member of thefeeding mechanism for shifting the Work-holder from stitching intocutting position, and means independent` of said vmeans whereby thework-holder is caused to reassuine stitching position.

- holder.

said w Ork-holder,

11i In buttonholesewing machine performing 'a' cycle of operationcomprising a fabric cutting actionfollowed by a stitching action, thecombination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocatingneedle confined to a fixed 'range of movement by a`laterally fixedbearing, a traveling workholder and a cutting form its cutting actionsout of the range o action of the stitch-forming mechanism andcomprisinga cutting element having a -path of movement of which aportionis substan` tially parallel with the. direction oftravel of travelingmovements to the',` kwork-holder whereby the latter is caused to assumeand" remain in cutting position atthe completion of a cycle, andactuating means acting at the beginning of the succeeding cycle forimparting to the cutting devicea cutting action preparatory to theinitial travel of the work- 12.,In a v n combination with overseamingstitch-forining Amechanism including a reciprocating needle having arange of movement relative to la xed axis limited to the width of foractuating ythe cutting device, andmeans whereby the work-holder isshifted into cutting position at the completion of a cycle of operationof the machine and is returned to operative relation with the.stitch-forming mechanism after the beginning of a succeeding cycle.

18. In a buttonhole sewing machineuthe combination with stitch-formingmechanism,

a cutting device adapted the a work-holder, and to perform its cuttingactions out of range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism, of arotary feed-wheel for moving the work-holder between cutting positionand the extreme stitching position more remote therefrom, means forimparting to said feedwheel a partial rotation to move the workeration,for completing holder for spacing the stitches during the action of thestitch-forming mechanism, and means acting upon the feed-wheel anddisconnected therefrom during each cutting opthe rotation of the latterand shifting the work-holder into cutting position.

14. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, feeding mechanism including a rotary feeddevice adapted toper relatively movable cutting of means fon-imparting vturn thefeed-wheel 'buttonhole sewing machine, the

gnism and the feeding nism,

wheel with periodically operating actuatingmeans therefor, and cuttingmechanism with means independent of the feed-wheel for actuating it, ofmeans for establishing driving relation between the feed-wheel and thecutting mechanism during the inactive periods of said feed-wheelactuating means.

15.In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-foriningmechanism,

cutting mechanism including traveling and elements, and feedingmechanism including a rotary feedwheel with periodically operatingactuating means therefor, of means'deriving from the cutting mechanism,traveling movements timed substantially correspondingly with those ofsaid cutting elements and adapted to independently of said actuatingmeans.

1G.In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, cutting mechanism, with periodically operating actuatingmeans therefor, of means including va ratchet-andpawl connection betweenthe cutting mechamechanism whereby the latter is operatedindependentlyof said actuating means. Y

17. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, cutting mechanism, and feeding mechanism including a rotaryfeed-wheel with periodiand feeding mechanism means including aratchet-and-pawl connection between the cutting mechanism and thefeed-wheel whereby the latter is turned independentlyof said actuatingmeans.

18. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechacutting mechanism, and feeding mechanism including a rotaryfeed-wheel with periodically operating actuating means therefor, ofmeans including an adjustable connection between the cutting mechanismand the feed-/wheel whereby the latter is turned` in a degree determinedby the condition of adiustment of said connection dui'- i'ng a period ofinaction of said actuating means. y

19. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, a cutting `device, actuating means therefor including acutter-shaft performing a single rotation during each cycle of operationof the machine and operatively connected with said cutting device, and

-feeding mechanism including a rotary feed-- wheel provided -wheelwhereby a partial rotation is im- 'tion of the cutter-shaft.

periodically operating actuating means for' said ratchet element, ofmeans includinga cam o n the cutter-shaft, a reciprocating carrieryconnectedI therewith7 and a pawl on said -carrier for engagementWiththe ratchet element of said feed-wheel whereby' a partial rotationis imparted to the feed-wheel for each rotation of 'the cutter-shaft.Y

21. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, a -cutting device, actuating means therefor including acutter-shaft performing a single. rotation during each cycle ofoperation of the machine and operatively connected with said cuttingdevice, andvfeeding mechanism including a rotary feed- Wheel providedWith a series of ratchet teeth and periodically operating actuatingmeans for said ratchet element, of means including a cam on thecutter-shaft, a reciprocatingr carrier havinF an adjustable connectiontherewith, an a pawl on said carrier for engagement with saidratchet-teeth of the feed-wheel whereby a partial rotation is impartedto the feed Wheel for each rota- 22. In a butonhole sewing machine, the

nism, a work-holder, and a cutting device comprising relativelyreciprocable carriers sustaining cooperating cutting elements, of meansfor imparting to said cutting device traveling movements toward and fromthe stitch-forming mechanism, and means for imparting to said cuttingelements reciprocal cutting movements from positions at opposite sidesof thel work-holder.

Q3. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, a work-holder, and a cutting device comprising carriersadapted for relative reciprocal movement and carrying respectively ablock and a cutting knife, one of which is removable, said cuttingdevice being adapted to perform its cutting actions out of the range ofaction of the stitch-forming mechanism, of means for moving saidwork-holder into cutting position for register-with said cutting device7and means in- -cluding an adjustable element whereby the work-holder isretracted into the range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism alil.

distance adjustable to conform with the length of slit produced by`saidcutting devlce.

Qa. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, a Work-holder, and a cutting device comprising relativelyreciprocable carriers sustaining cooperating cutting elements of whichone is removably mounted upon its respective carrier, to cut buttonholeslits of different length, said cutting device being adapted to performits cutting actions out of the range of action of the stitch-formingmechanism, of means for imparting to said work-holder a uniform lengthof travel terminating in a fixed cutting position, means acting Whilethe Work-holder is in extreme position for actuating the cutting deviceto cut a buttonhole slit, actuating means connected with thetravel-producing means whereby the work-holder is given step-bystepfeeding movements toward and from one eXtreme position to space theedge-covering stitches, shifting means connected with saidtravel-producing means independently of said actuating means whereby thetravel of the work-holder toward and from its opposite extreme positionis effected, and means for effecting inversely adjustment of therespective periods of yaction of said actuating means and the shiftingmeans for varying the relative lengths of traverse of the work-holderunder the respective actions of said actuating and shifting means tothereby vary the length of the stitched buttonholes produced.

Q5. In a buttonhole sewing machine the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, a stop-motion for controlling the same` a travelingwork-holder, and a cutting device including a'detachable cutting elementand adapted to perform its cutting actions out ot' the range of actionof the stitch-forming mechanism, of adjustable means whereby thework-holder is moved from cutting position to stitching position adistance'conforming with the length of slit produced by said cuttingdevice, means for operating the stop-motion to initiate the actionof thestitch-forming mechanism` adjustable means controlled by the travel ofthe work-holder for tripping the stopmotion to arrest the stitch-formingmechanism, and means for moving lthe workholder into cutting positionprej'iaratory to a succeeding cutting operation.

2G. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, a cutting device comprising coperating cutting elements,actlating means for said cutting device, and a work-holder havingclamping members movable laterally toward and from each other, ofspreading means, for separatingsaid clamping members and acting thereonwhile said cutting elements Aareclosed upon the work.

27. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

l combination '1 stitch-'forming mechanism'g a cutting device comprisingcoperating4 cutting-elements, actuating means for fsad cutting device,and a work-holder having'clamping members movable laterally io means"connected with the cutter-actuating towardr and from each' other, ofspreading fin'eansand .includinga rotary cam-.button and a llatch devicetherefor, said' cam-button being adapted'to be turned while ,the cuttersare closed,` upon the work toseparate lthe clamping members.

28. In afbutton'hole sewing ma'chine,th'e." combination' withstitch-forming ,mecha-- nism and a cutting device including Y riers.normally retractedl bodily'` laterally.

from cutting position and sustaining respectively a cutting knife and anopposed block, 'one of which is removable' `from its respective carrier,and `a worlrholder normally located iii-.cutting position but out .ofregister -with the -cutting device, of

means whereby said work-holder and cutting deviceare caused to assumeoperative relation, and means acting independently 3o thereof forproducing a relative travel between the work-holder and theStitchforming mechanism, which is adjustable -to conform with theeffective length of the coperating portions" of said cutting knife andblock.

'y 29. In a buttonholesewing machine, the

combination with stitch-forming mechanisrn, a cutting device mounted forsubfao stantial movement toward and from the stitch-forming mechanism`and adapted to perform its'cutting actions out of therange of 4action of`the stitch-f orming mechanism,

andvfa work-holder normally' disposed in cutting position,'of means forshifting said work-holderL from cutting to stitching posiftionafter acutting action, means acting thereafter for imparting to the work-holderlfeeding movements to space the stitches,

and ine'ans acting i in the same operative cycle of the machineandimmediately after the-stitching operation to return the workholder tocutting position.

` 30. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination withstitch-forming mechanism, a traveling cutting device comprisingcoperating cutting elements each vmovable,` tow-ard and fromther'stitch-for'ming mechanism and adapted to perform its cut-v tingactions out of the'range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism, anda workholder normally disposed incutting 'position and comprisingseparable lclamping jaws,` of means for closing the work-holder upon thework, means for shifting said position and the eXtreme stitchingpositionmore-3 remote therefrom, means forimparting'tofthefeed-yvheel astep-by-step partial rotary 'movement during 'the action. of thestitch-formingmechanism, means for Aimparting to v theffeed-wheel'i'partial rotations in the 'same direction before and after each stitchingoperation to shift the work-holder into and out "ofl cutting position,and means independent of the feed-wheel for. actuating the 'cuttingdevice.

32. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

combination withv stitch-forming mecha-V nisni, a stop-motionl` for 1controlling the same, a cutting device adapted to perform -its cuttingactions out of the range of action of the stitch-formingl mechanism,actuating means therefor, a work-holder, 'and a rotary feed-wheeladapted to movethe 'work-holder between cutting position and the eXtremestitching position more remote therefrom, of meansv for imparting to thefeed-wheel a step-by-step partial rotary movement during the -actionofthe stitchforming mechanism, means. includingl an adjustable elementconnected with and controlledin its range of action by thecutteractuating means for imparting to the feedwheel a partial'rotationpreparatory to a stitching operation, and means controlled in its rangeof action by the4 stop-motion for imparting tothe feed-wheel a partialrotation subsequent to the action of the stitch-forming mechanism. y l

33. In `a buttonhole sewing. machine, the 'combination with a shaft,stitch-forming mechanism deriving operativemovements therefrom, acam'mounted -upon said shaft, a work-holder comprising a pivotallymounted-clamping arm and a controlling rockshaft there or carrying atapp'et-arm, feeding mechanism connected with said .workholder andactuated independently of said cam, a rock-lever having an arm adaptedfor engagement with, said tappet-arm for turning the rock-shaft to' openthe workiis holder, and means for establishing operativeconnectionbetwee'n said rock-leverand said cam. work-holder from cuttingto stitching po Se. Ina buttonhole sewing machine, the

combination with a shaft, stitch-forming mechanism deriving operativemovements therefrom, a stop-motion for controlling said shaft, anormally operative thread-tension device, and a work-holder constructedwith separable clamping members, of Workholder opening means connectedwith and actuated by said stop-motion, and tensionreleasing meansconnected with said stopmotion independently ofthe work-holder openingmeans.

35. In av buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with la shaft,`stitch-forming mechanism deriving operative movements therefrom andcomprising coperating up per thread and lower thread carrying elf ments,a stop-motion for" controlling said shaft, normally operativeupper-thread and lower-thread tension devices, and a workliolderconstructed with separable clamping members, of work-holder openingmeans connected with and actuated by said stopmotion, and meansconnected with the stopmotion for simultaneously acting upon theupper-thread and lower-thread tension devices to relieve the tensionupon their respective threads.

36. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, a normally active thread-tension device, a work-holder, andmeans for producing relative feeding movements between the stitchformingmechanism and the work and comprising a rotary feed-wheel with meansforimparting-thereto a partial rotation during said feeding inovementsnofmeans acting after the completion ofthe opera'tion of the stitch-formingmechanism for causing the I turning of the feed-wlieel into initialposition, and means connected therewith for relieving the action of saidtension device upon the thread.

37. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism comprisinga reciprocating` needle, and a thread-cariwinglooper cooperating therewith, a work-holder, normally operativeupper-thread and lower-thread tension devices arranged respectivelyabove and below said work-holder. and feeding mechanism for producing`relative feeding movements between the work-holder and thestitcli-forming mechanism, of automatically acting Civ obi

means engaging said tension devices for relievingthe action of the sameupon the threads at the completion of the period of action of thestitch-forming mechanism.

In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, a stop-motion device including a cani and a follower thereforforrcontrolling the period of action of the stitch-forming mechanism,and u normally operative thread-tension de,- vice, of tension-releasingmeans, and an operative connec'fen between the same and said follower ofthe stop-motion device whereby the tension-releasing means isrenderedrespectively effective and ineffective in its relation to thetension device by the actuation of the stop-motion device in stoppingand starting the operation of the stitchshaft,fabric-cutting mechanism,and means independent of said shaft for actuating the same, oftension-releasing means operatively lconnected with said stop-motion andadapted t'o interrupt the action of the tension device upon the threadwhen said shaft is arrested, and an operative connection between saidtension device and the actuating means for the fabric-cuttingmechanismwhereby said shaft isset in motion and the tensionreleasiirgmeans isrenderedineffective.

40. In a buttonliole sewing machine, the combination with astitch-forming mechanism, and a work-holder, of feeding mechanisincomprising three separateactuating devices each independent of theothers, whereby traveling movements are imparted to the wm'k-liolder inthree stages at varying speeds during each cycle of operation of themachine.

41. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, and a work-holder, of a rotary feed-wheel connected with saidwork-holder, and three successively acting actuating mechanisms for saidfeed-wheel.

l2. In a buttoiihole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, and a work-holder, of a rotary feed-wheel connected with saidwork-holder, and three successively acting` actuating mechanisms forsaid feed-wheel each working at a different speed from the others.

4:3. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

combination with stitch-forming mechanism,

. ter with both of the same, of means for producing between saidwork-holder and cutting device lateral traveling movements transverse tothe direction `of movement of said cutting element upon the work,Whereby the work-holder and cutting devicey are caused to assumeoperative relation for a cutting action and for thereafter imparting tosaid device a. cutting action, and means acting at a different time fromth/e firstnamed -means whereby said work-holder and stitch-formingmechanism are caused to assume operative relation.

a5. In a -buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism and a cutting` device normally spaced apart, and a work-holderoccupying. initially a position laterally out of register with both ofthe same, of means for producing successively relative shiftingmovements between the work-holder and the stitch-forming mechanism andthe cutting device, respectively, and thereby establishing successivelyoperative relation of the'work-clamp with the cutting device and thestitch-forming mechanism. y

46. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

combination with stitch-forming mechanism,

a cutting device, and a work-holder initially out of register with boththe stitch-forming mechanism and cutting device, ofmeans forsuccessively shifting the cutting device into register with theworkholder and actuating the cuttingdevice to' cut a buttonhole slit andfor thereafter retracting the cutting device, and-means' for shiftingthe work-holder into registerv with the stitch-forming mechanism and forthereafter retracting'the same to initial position.

'-17. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination withstitch-forming mechanism, cutting mechanism, and feeding mechanism withperiodically operating actuating means therefor, of means includingratchet-andpawl mechanism under the control 'of the cutting mechanismfor operating the feeding mechanism while the stitch-forming mechanismis inactive.

48. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, 'cutting mechanism, and feeding mechanism including a rotaryfeed-wheel with periodically operating actuating means therefor, ofmeans including a reciprocatory pawlcarrier anda pawl mounted thereonfor turning the feed-wheel-during the period. of

inaction of said actuating means, and means whereby the length of travelof said pawlcarrier may be adjusted.

49. In a buttonhole sewing machinetthe combination with stitch-formingmechanism,

cutting mechanism, and feeding mechanism including a rotary feed-wheelwith periodically operating actuating means therefor, ofla reciprocatorypawI-carrier'and a pawl mounted thereon and adapted for engagement withthe feed-wheel for turning the latter, pawl-carrier actuating meansadapted to produce a single traverse of the pawlcarrier between extremepositions for each cutting action, and means whereby the length oftrai'fei'se of the pawl-carrier may be adjusted. v

50. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism,l a stop-motion for controlling the same, a cutting deviceadapted to perform its cutting actions out of the range of action of thestitch-forming mechanism,A actuating means therefor, a work-holder, anda rotary feed-wheeladapted to move the work-holder between cuttingposition and the extreme stitching position more remote therefrom, ofmeans for imparting to the feed-,wheel a -step-by-step partial rotarymovementduring the action of the stitch-forming mechanism, means,including an adjustable eleeration, and means controlled in its range ofaction by the stop-motion for imparting to the feed-wheel a partialrotation subsequent to Athe action of' the stitch-forming mechanism.

' 51. In a buttonhole wing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism and a cutting device normally occupying initial positionslaterally spaced apart, and a work-holder initially occupying a position'intermediate the stitch-forming mechanism and the cutting device, ofmeans acting while the stitch-forming mechanism is inactive forimparting to both the work-holder and the cutting device reciprocaltraveling movements toward and from each other to cause them to assumecooperating relation inter-` mediate said initial positions, and meansindependent thereof for actuating the cutting device to perform acutting action.

52. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

combination with stitch-forming mechanism and a cutting device includingopposed cutting elements movable in a path permanently out of the rangeof action of the stitch-forming mechanism and normally disposed' in aposition laterally remote from the stitch-forming mechanism, and aworkholder normally occupying an initial position out of the range ofaction of the stitchforming mechanism and intermediate the f latter andthe`retracted position of said cutting elements, of means for producingbetween said work-holder and cutting device lateral traveling movementsto bring them into operative `relation and to thereafter close thecutting elements upon the work, and means for bringing the workholderand stitch-forming mechanism intor operative relation.

53. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

combination with stitch-forming mechanism and a cutting device includinga cutting element movable in a path` permanently out of the range ofaction of the stitch-forming mechanism and normally disposed in aposition laterally remote from tlae stitch-forming mechanism, and awork-holder normally occupyingan initial position between thcstitch-formino,` mechanism and the retracted position of said cuttingelement, of means for imparting` to said cutting element successivetrayeling and cutting movements in angnlarly disposed substantiallyrectilinear pathsl embracing the initial position of the work-holder andout of the range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism, and meansfor thereafter' bringing the work-holderand stitch-forming mechanisminto operative relation,

54. ln a buttonhole sewing mach-ine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism and a cutting device including a cutting element and awork-holder normally occupying an initial position laterally out ofregister with both of the same, of independent and successively actingmeans for imparting to the cutting device a lateral movement intoregister with the work-holder followed by a cutting movement, and meansfor thereafter bringing' the work-holder and stitch-forming mechanisminto operative relation.

ln a buttonholc sewing machine, the combination with two independentlydriven actuating shafts, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-holder. and acutting device operative permanent'ly out of the range of acttion of thestitch-forming mechanism. of means including' independent connectionswith said shafts respectively whereby the work-holder is causedrespectively to move from stitching` position into operative. relationwith the cutting device at one rate of speedand to return to stitching'posit-ion at a higher rate of speed.

5G. ln a buttonholc sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, and cutting mechanism including cutting' elements operativepermanently out of the range of act-ion of the stitch-forming mechanism.a traveling work-holder normally occupying an initial position withinthe range of action of said cutting elements, actuating means connectedwith the workholder and confined ih its period of effective action tothat of the stitch-forming mechanism in the production of relativefeeding movements between the stitchforming` mechanism and the work. ofmeans acting during a period of ineffectiveness of said actuating meansfor imparting traveling movements to the work-holder and comprising`operative connections with the cutting mechanism and with driving meansindependent thereof including a positively acting' clement. i

5T. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, and cutting mechanism including cutting elements operativepermanently out of the range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism,and a traveling Work-holder normally occupying an initial positionWithin the range of action of said cutting elements, of. a rotaryfeed-wheel connected with the work-holder, actuating means therefon anda driving connection between said feed-wheel and the cutting mechanism.

5S. ln a bnttonhole sewing' machine, the combination with a shaft,lstitch-forming mechanism operatively connected therewith, a stop-motiondevice including a cam mounted upon and rotating in unison with saidshaft and a follower for positive engagement with said camin arrestingthe movement of said shaft. and a normally operati've thread tensiondevice, of tensionreleasmg means, and an operative connection betweenthe same and said follower of theI stop-motion device whereby thetensionreleasing means is rendered respectively effective andineffective in its relation to the tension device b v the actuation ofthe stop-motion device in stopping and starting the operation of saidshaft.

:39. In a bnttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism. a wm'k-holder, and a cutting device adapted to perform itscutting act-ions out ofthe range of action of the. stitch-formingmechanisms` of a feed-wheel operatively EDlVAIxD B. ALLEN.

i Vitnesses:

llnNnY J. Binnen, HENRY A. KORNEMANN, Jr.

Corrections iin Letters Patent No.f1l.20 9,.926 Si It'` i'iherebycertified that in Letters/PatentNo. 1,209,926, granted December 26,

,11916,*up'on' the application of Edward B. Allen, ofBridgeport,Connection@ for an `im'provlement in Buttonhole Cutting andStitching Machines, erro-rs appearinthe Iirinteclspecification-requiring correction as followls: Page` 9, line 12,1,claim 10,

:stril'e out the Word mechanism page 13, line 94, claim 40, strike outthe article that the-said 'Letters Patent should be read with thesecorrections therein that 1 I the same may conform to the recorml of thecae in the Patent Office.

signed and sealedI this eonhday of January,-A. D., 1911.

i F. W. H. CLAY,

Acting Commissioner of Patents.-

-u a page 15, line 101, claim 59,.foi` the Word mechanisms readmecha?tiem;l and A

